15 October 2008

Finalmente Brasil

Kinkerstraat 22
Amsterdam

Ever since I first stumbled upon Finalmente Brasil over one year ago, I wondered about this curious little place which always seemed packed despite its dreary, worn out appearance. What was this little Brazilian lunchroom that remained consistently full without any mention on IENS? Calling upon only the most scientific deductive reasoning, I surmised that their clientele must live locally and were a loyal bunch on account of what must be consistent and well prepared food. In light of whatever judgments I may have made about the outward appearance of the restaurant, my interest was piqued and my expectations were high.

I caught up with Finalmente Brasil one early Saturday afternoon in August and took a seat, joining only the few flies casually buzzing around a nearby table. A Portuguese game show was blaring from the TV in the corner and the one waitress hung casually on the counter chatting to the chef. As I’d studied my menu options online months before, I didn’t need long to settle on my choice. After ordering the feijoada, a traditional Brazilian stew, I settled into my rickety chair for the last stretch of what had actually been a year long wait.

It arrived a short 15 minutes later neatly presented in three parts. First, I received a large bowl of black beans; second, a small aluminum platter with one grilled pork chop, a fried plantain (bakbanaan), sautéed fresh greens, a healthy (sized) piece of pork belly and a small portion of lukewarm rice; finally, an empty plate upon which one could mingle together all of the above.

If you believe life is best enjoyed over a generous helping of beans accompanied by pork prepared in a variety of ways, then you are probably not Dutch. A dish which lives or dies on the beans, these were richly flavored from ham hocks, slowly braised so that the meat falls off the bone upon the slightest pressure of the fork. The pork chop, dusted in what tasted like Goya’s Abodo seasoning, had perfectly parallel crisscross grill markings on it (OK, suspiciously parallel), but was juicy and flavorful enough to allow my suspicions to melt away… And speaking of melting, that was the sensation in my mouth after crunching through the fat of the pork belly, caramelized in all the right places.

Unfortunately there were all to little of the greens. They were still a vibrant color after being pan flashed with a bit too much oil, but they added a refreshingly bitter crisp bite that served as the perfect balance to the deliciously salty food.

Wonderful to gorge yourself in the company of friends or soothing to slowly enjoy on one’s own, Finalmente Brasil’s feijoada is the quintessential comfort food. I ate mine without the optional pig’s ear & tail (the price is the same with or without – €17.50) but next time I might trust them enough to go the distance.